The best burgers in Stockholm
This post is long overdue. Then again, I wanted to make sure I had enough experience at joints that serve burgers in order to compile this list with some amount of credibility.
I personally believe it's hard to find a good burger here. The burger patties are often frozen and griddle/pan fried, prepared in ways that burgers should never be prepared.
But when you do come upon that place that has a good burger it can, with a single bite, drop you back 20 years, to beach barbecues and youthful innocence.
These are the places in Stockholm that make a fantastic burger, in order of my personal favorites:
- Grill Ruby - A pricey burger, but the best one you'll eat in Stockholm. An American chef grills them over an open flame of imported Kingsford charcoal. Are. You. Kidding. Me.
- Bara Vi - Served on homemade bread, Bara Vi's burger is charred on the outside and tender and rare on the inside.
- Wirströms - A great, big burger with all the fixins, and a fantastic Spaten to help wash it down, while listening to live music is a great choice in Gamla Stan.
- Akkurat - A big burger chased down with one of their huge selection of beers, is perfectly topped off with a glass of one of their many fine whiskeys.
I will be updating this list as I try more places, but if you're looking for a good burger these are definitely good places to start.
My love affair with Caffe Nero
I'm starting a new series this year called "My love affair with..." It's an attempt to take all those products, services, artists, technologies, etc. that significantly influence my outlook on the way things ought to be done; things that are done so well, they change the world, the community, art, technology, etc. for the better. They set new standards and innovate, they make our lives better, not easier. They are things that, if it were physically possible, I would make deep passionate love to, cuddle with, and even call back in a few days.
So this is the first in the "My love affair with..." series.
Swedes take a ton of pride in their coffee. They like it strong. Long, cold winters might have something to do with it. I'm proud to say, I live just around the corner from the best coffee served in all of Stockholm. In fact, I will venture to say it is the best coffee I've had in my life.
It's Italian coffee, so it's served by forcing hot water through densely-packed ground coffee beans. I will have my coffee one of two ways, Americano or Espresso. More often I will have it as an Americano, typically for breakfast or during a midday fika, served with foamy warm milk on top, and a bit of brown sugar. Sometimes I'll have it as an espresso with a cannoli dessert. No matter how I have it, Nero makes it perfectly. It's made in a way that only your local neighborhood Italian restaurant and cafe can make it. And Nero qualifies itself as something that, when it disappears, or when I disappear, will be completely and utterly irreplaceable in my life.
So sadly I've become strangely addicted to it. Every morning before work, I wake up and I walk just around the corner to Caffe Nero. Everyone knows me there and expects me there. I'm one of the first to arrive in the morning. With my Americano, I have a freshly-baked croissant (cornetto) filled with either apricot preserves, lemon vanilla cream, almond paste, or chocolate. And every morning when I walk in the door, they get it started for me, no matter where in line I am. I'll then sit down and savor the thirty minutes I have with my Americano, my cornetto, and my book. It's my chance to unwind before I begin a day at work, or to appreciate the time I have with myself on a Saturday or Sunday morning. I am typically not a person of routine in any way, but I am probably Nero's most regular and predictable customer ever.
And that's just the coffee. They also happen to serve an amazing Italian lunch and dinner menu which changes seasonally and includes some of the best Italian food I've had. The pan fried and breaded veal stuffed with ruccola and prosciutto is something you'll taste in your mouth for weeks. Their freshly-made pastas are second-to-none. Their service is immaculate.
And with their success comes great opportunity. As of today, they're moving their main restaurant to a far larger space just two doors away, where they will have a bar and more seating room (something they are in desperate need of) and their current space will eventually be turning into their fresh bakery/cafe after some renovations, something Stockholm is desperately missing.
Nero is an assault on the senses with their amazing coffee, their good, fresh Italian food, and their outstanding service and I humbly resign myself to the ridiculous power it has over me. If every place in Stockholm were like Nero, I'd never have any reason to want to leave.
Happy Thanksgiving from The Swedish Chef???
I'll bet none of you knew that Swedes celebrate Thanksgiving.
Well they don't of course, but the Swedish Chef does:
A very happy Thanksgiving to all my friends in Sweden and in the US! Enjoy your kalkon and tranbär sås!
By the way, while we're on the whole Muppets thing, you HAVE to watch this:
A brief moment in San Francisco
For the first time in the 15 months since I left San Francisco, I came back. The occasion was a bittersweet one as I briefly got to see the friends that made it so memorable and yet I didn't get to see them enough. I got a brief glimpse at one of the most beautiful cities in the world and I got to eat to my heart's delight.
Alas the trip was short. I arrived on Friday afternoon and am sitting at SFO now awaiting my flight to board. The brief moment I spent here reminded me of what I miss as well as why I left.
I did have a few things I set out to do and I did them.
- The Tuk Tuk Goose fundraiser at 111 Minna. Check.
- After arriving at SFO on Friday afternoon, on practically no sleep, I went to the apartment of my dear friends Barb and Seema (where I would end up crashing for the weekend. Thanks!) and mentally prepared myself for a night of reunions, doing good things for great causes and getting too drunk to function in a coherent sense.
- It hadn't occurred to me until it was too late that not only hadn't I slept, but I hadn't eaten, and any more than two beers would send me into a shame spiral from which I wouldn't emerge.
- Following the event, I'd spilled a drink, dropped thai food all over myself, and fell asleep at the restaurant. I literally probably had like three beers (and maybe a couple shots).
- Needless to say, the event was a success and it was great to see some friends who I missed very dearly.
- Mission burrito at El Farolito. Check.
- After getting my ass over to El Farolito, I sat there alone with my burrito and I savored every taste of carne asada, cheese, salsa, black beans, sour cream, avocado, and epic burrito flavor. It's the street food that has no equivalent anywhere in the world.
- I had to walk halfway across the city to burn this thing off so I could make room for Saison.
- Dinner at the hot, new San Francisco restaurant, Saison (recommended by my friend AJ). CHECK!
- Navin and Barb joined me at the new restaurant where we indulged in a SEVEN course prix fixe menu and wine pairing (BOTTOMLESS) that you only get in a place like San Francisco. The food was all sourced locally and the flavors were mindblowing. The menu had been set on Friday and the restaurant is only open on Fridays, Saturdays, and Sundays, so I consider us to be very lucky to have gotten reservations just a couple weeks ago.
- More than just the food, the ambiance and service were second-to-none. Housed in a former horse stable (no joke), Saison is very *casual* in terms of style even though the food (and the prices) dictate otherwise. Like some other popular establishments in SF, the dining room opens into the kitchen so you can see the masters of the art at work while you eat. It lacked pretention and was a dining experience that sits amongst the top that I've had in San Francisco. Kudos to Joshua Skenes and team for yet another top-notch San Francisco restaurant.
- The menu speaks for itself: http://saisonsf.com/pdf/saison%20menu%2011.21.09%20web.pdf
The weekend wasn't a complete success. Sadly the thing I missed and hurt the most was not getting to see Bucky's newly-birthed offspring Liam. And worse yet, it was substituted by an hour of mockery from my other "friend" JT on Friday night.
But I'm not worried. I know I'll be coming back.
Now...to New York, Thanksgiving, and a wedding.
Nostalgic for the Mission Burrito
I've been here for 15 months now.
In that time, my spoken and written english has devolved, my skin has become pale, my pants are now very snug and tight-fitting, my apartment is minimally decorated, and I've mellowed out considerably and swear a lot less (although my Swedish colleagues would argue I'm far from mellow and continue to border on crazy New Yorker, especially when the team is involved in a heated round of Battlefield Heroes).
Though all these things may seem like major changes to my lifestyle and behavior, none are quite as dramatic as my diet. I eat far more seafood here, in particular salmon and herring. The salmon is usually poached or baked, and the herring is either pickled or fried. In the winter, like the rest of the Swedes, I hunker down with meat and potatoes. The potatoes are most often boiled, sometimes roasted, and the meat can be in the form of a stew, broiled (like a steak), or baked (like a ham). I eat far less lamb (the northern Europeans I've met don't seem to like it as much) and less chicken.
As much as I appreciate the Swedish diet and enjoy it thoroughly, particularly for its very apparent health benefits (Swedes are beautiful, and it's no coincidence), I have desperate cravings for food that, in all of Europe, is nowhere to be found.
In three weeks, I'll be going stateside for a few major events: Thanksgiving in NY, my friend's wedding (also in NY), and the Tuk Tuk Goose fundraiser in San Francisco.
My trip to San Francisco will be the first one since I left almost a year and a half ago. I'm going back under the most desirable of circumstances. We're throwing a huge party to raise money for some amazing charities in the name of a fantastic adventure that I'll be partaking in with two great friends. I'll be seeing some close friends I haven't seen in a while and I'll have an entire weekend to spend with some of them (though I might argue that's not nearly enough). It'll be the holiday season, the tail-end of a crappy recession, and a good reason to consume mass amounts of alcohol in what will be a big homecoming celebration.
But most of all, I will look forward to the food. San Francisco has, for 30 years, been one of the culinary capitals of the US and furthermore of the world. It was from San Francisco (Berkeley actually), that Alice Waters kicked off an American gastronomic revolution in the 70s and is still today revolutionizing the way we look at not only the consumption of food, but the farming and distribution of it.
My initial thought upon scheduling my return was to see if I could get reservations to Thomas Keller's The French Laundry in Napa, a restaurant that sits among the top in the world. It was a place I never got to go to before I left and I have regretted it ever since. For a number of reasons I decided not to, including the fact that I didn't need to drop that much cash on one meal before heading half way around the world.
But luckily for me, San Francisco does not run short on options.
So rather than head to The French Laundry, I will be opting for the second-best option: the $5 burrito at a divey, cash-only taqueria where no one speaks english in the Mission District. I will likely be drunk when I go, and will likely have the runs when I wake up the next morning (apologies in advance to whomever will be putting me up for the weekend). But it will be the best burrito (and Mexican food) I will have consumed in 15 months and I will likely consume it in 15 minutes. And I can't wait.
The Mission taqueria is a street-food gastronomic experience, rivaling the NY pizzeria or deli, the Chicago hot dog stand, the French creperie, and the Swedish strömmingvagn. You wait in line in a divey taqueria surrounded by Mission hipsters and homeless men trying to sell you bicycles. The menu includes items such as tongue and brain. The six to seven men (and one to two women) are slaving over a hot industrial size grill preparing cow-sized portions of chopped meats trying to churn you through the line as fast as possible and never screwing up an order despite the mass chaos that ensues. The hardworking immigrant pursuing the American dream is an essential ingredient to the Mission taqueria.
When you get the burrito, it's usually wrapped in foil. When you bite into it, it's a flavor explosion. Meat (carnitas, carne asada, pollo, etc), beans (black or pinto...NOT refried), rice, sour cream, guacamole, onions, and a whole lot of love overwhelms your senses leaving you crippled about halfway down into the monstrosity. And the only way to wash it down is with a tasty Mexican coke, Jarritos, or Dos Equis. The entire meal is 9000 calories of awesome.
And of course SFers, challenge me all you want here, but at the time I left El Farolito was still serving the best burritos I ever had in the Mission.
I can't wait.
The Great Smör Med Havssalt Drought of 2009
While the rest of the world has been bracing for the pandemic that is the swine flu, Sweden has had their own national nightmare.
Smör (pronounced smirrrr) med havssalt has been disappearing off shelves and Swedes have been scrambling to make do with just plain smör.
Ok. I'll stop with the rigmarole. Smör is butter. Smör med havssalt is butter with sea salt.
Let me explain something about the butter here. It's amazing. It's used in all cooking. It's natural, it's rich, it's delightful. It's not some watered down, commodity corn substitute loaded with cow hormones and tasting like empty crap.
Smör is used in all cooking. And it's not used in excess because it tastes good enough in moderation. That is the way food is harvested in Europe; to be consumed in moderation. Novel concept. I know. But I know of a distant land that industrially manufactures food to be consumed by human beings as it would be consumed by cattles lining up for the slaughter.
Butter here is creamy. It's rich. It tastes like butter. You simply can't eat too much of it, nor do you want to. It can be used in everything and when you cook with it, you can taste it in the food. In a good way. It actually brings out the flavor in what you're eating.
More amazing than just smör is the smör med havssalt. The sea salt butter produced here tastes great in cooking as it does on fresh bread, with a little fig jam.

So when I was on the verge of running out, I asked M to pick some up on her way over for dinner that night.
She SMSed me to say she couldn't find it. What does that MEAN?!?!
I called her.
She'd gone to a couple places. One grocery store had run out and the clerk was clueless while the second place simply said they stopped ordering it. WHAT? I would've grabbed that clerk by the shoulders, shaken and slapped him/her a few times. Fortunately, M is a bit more civilized than I.
I grabbed my coat and went to the most obscure supermarket near me. It's underground near a train station and the kind of place you stumble upon by accident usually when you're not even looking for it. For the Swedes/Sweden-dwellers, Coop at Slussen. It's almost always stocked since no one really goes there.
I ran to the back of the store and opened the small smör refrigerator, and there it was. Only TWO left. I pondered taking both. Stocking up for what was sure to be a long, dark, and potentially smörless winter.
I settled for one. And the woman waiting patiently behind me as I grabbed mine? Well needless to say, she grabbed the very last one.
Is this what socialism is? High demand, low supply by an overreaching government that struggles to meet the overly-expectant needs of its starving population? Will I have to stand outside in a line in the cold, braving the Swedish winter, for a little taste of the heavenly, creamy deliciousness that is smör med havssalt??? Will I have to fall to my atheist knees to pray to Sankt Erik, patron saint of Stockholm, and glorious provider of smör med havssalt for the Swedish working man? Will I have to prostitute myself to government officials, doing things you only see in movies, making myself an informant for the socialist government and a political propaganda tool for the greater good, FOR BUT A TASTE OF SMÖR MED HAVSSALT???
I'd do it all a hundred times over.
Especially when it saves me from having to eat this USDA-approved industrial crap:

I läk Läkerol. I läk it a lot.
Licorice.

Stockholm: Year One
This weekend makes one year since I moved to Stockholm.
- Come on!
- You serious?
- You gotta be kidding me!
- Unbelievable!
- You are the WORST. FRIEND. EVER.
- Ok. Ok. Enough.
- Dude.
- You guys ready? Ready? You ready?
worth reading that summarizes it, Winter in Stockholm.
Balmy Stockholm, the Engångsgrill, and Kubb
On Monday, my close friends here in Sweden helped ring in my 31st birthday.

Pizza Salad
I don't know if this is a Swedish thing, an Italian thing, or a pizza in Europe thing. In those rare moments when I'm craving pizza in Sweden, I go into a local pizza establishment (pizzeria or pizza place would be far too generous). I've noticed that at every casual Italian dining place, be it standard Italian fare or pizza, they have this thing called pizza salad.

