free rommy New York → Kansas City → San Francisco → Stockholm → Berlin

22Feb/1012

The best burgers in Stockholm

This post is long overdue. Then again, I wanted to make sure I had enough experience at joints that serve burgers in order to compile this list with some amount of credibility.

I personally believe it's hard to find a good burger here. The burger patties are often frozen and griddle/pan fried, prepared in ways that burgers should never be prepared.

But when you do come upon that place that has a good burger it can, with a single bite, drop you back 20 years, to beach barbecues and youthful innocence.

These are the places in Stockholm that make a fantastic burger, in order of my personal favorites:

  1. Grill Ruby - A pricey burger, but the best one you'll eat in Stockholm. An American chef grills them over an open flame of imported Kingsford charcoal. Are. You. Kidding. Me.
  2. Bara Vi - Served on homemade bread, Bara Vi's burger is charred on the outside and tender and rare on the inside.
  3. Wirströms - A great, big burger with all the fixins, and a fantastic Spaten to help wash it down, while listening to live music is a great choice in Gamla Stan.
  4. Akkurat - A big burger chased down with one of their huge selection of beers, is perfectly topped off with a glass of one of their many fine whiskeys.

I will be updating this list as I try more places, but if you're looking for a good burger these are definitely good places to start.

Filed under: food, sweden 12 Comments
24Jan/108

My love affair with Caffe Nero

I'm starting a new series this year called "My love affair with..." It's an attempt to take all those products, services, artists, technologies, etc. that significantly influence my outlook on the way things ought to be done; things that are done so well, they change the world, the community, art, technology, etc. for the better. They set new standards and innovate, they make our lives better, not easier.  They are things that, if it were physically possible, I would make deep passionate love to, cuddle with, and even call back in a few days.

So this is the first in the "My love affair with..." series.

Swedes take a ton of pride in their coffee. They like it strong. Long, cold winters might have something to do with it. I'm proud to say, I live just around the corner from the best coffee served in all of Stockholm. In fact, I will venture to say it is the best coffee I've had in my life.

It's Italian coffee, so it's served by forcing hot water through densely-packed ground coffee beans. I will have my coffee one of two ways, Americano or Espresso. More often I will have it as an Americano, typically for breakfast or during a midday fika, served with foamy warm milk on top, and a bit of brown sugar. Sometimes I'll have it as an espresso with a cannoli dessert. No matter how I have it, Nero makes it perfectly. It's made in a way that only your local neighborhood Italian restaurant and cafe can make it. And Nero qualifies itself as something that, when it disappears, or when I disappear, will be completely and utterly irreplaceable in my life.

So sadly I've become strangely addicted to it. Every morning before work, I wake up and I walk just around the corner to Caffe Nero. Everyone knows me there and expects me there. I'm one of the first to arrive in the morning. With my Americano, I have a freshly-baked croissant (cornetto) filled with either apricot preserves, lemon vanilla cream, almond paste, or chocolate. And every morning when I walk in the door, they get it started for me, no matter where in line I am. I'll then sit down and savor the thirty minutes I have with my Americano, my cornetto, and my book. It's my chance to unwind before I begin a day at work, or to appreciate the time I have with myself on a Saturday or Sunday morning. I am typically not a person of routine in any way, but I am probably Nero's most regular and predictable customer ever.

And that's just the coffee. They also happen to serve an amazing Italian lunch and dinner menu which changes seasonally and includes some of the best Italian food I've had. The pan fried and breaded veal stuffed with ruccola and prosciutto is something you'll taste in your mouth for weeks. Their freshly-made pastas are second-to-none. Their service is immaculate.

And with their success comes great opportunity. As of today, they're moving their main restaurant to a far larger space just two doors away, where they will have a bar and more seating room (something they are in desperate need of) and their current space will eventually be turning into their fresh bakery/cafe after some renovations, something Stockholm is desperately missing.

Nero is an assault on the senses with their amazing coffee, their good, fresh Italian food, and their outstanding service and I humbly resign myself to the ridiculous power it has over me. If every place in Stockholm were like Nero, I'd never have any reason to want to leave.

Filed under: favorites, food, reviews 8 Comments
25Nov/090

Happy Thanksgiving from The Swedish Chef???

I'll bet none of you knew that Swedes celebrate Thanksgiving.

Well they don't of course, but the Swedish Chef does:

A very happy Thanksgiving to all my friends in Sweden and in the US! Enjoy your kalkon and tranbär sås!

By the way, while we're on the whole Muppets thing, you HAVE to watch this:

Filed under: food, humor, videos No Comments
23Nov/096

A brief moment in San Francisco

For the first time in the 15 months since I left San Francisco, I came back. The occasion was a bittersweet one as I briefly got to see the friends that made it so memorable and yet I didn't get to see them enough. I got a brief glimpse at one of the most beautiful cities in the world and I got to eat to my heart's delight.

Alas the trip was short. I arrived on Friday afternoon and am sitting at SFO now awaiting my flight to board. The brief moment I spent here reminded me of what I miss as well as why I left.

I did have a few things I set out to do and I did them.

  • The Tuk Tuk Goose fundraiser at 111 Minna. Check.
    • After arriving at SFO on Friday afternoon, on practically no sleep, I went to the apartment of my dear friends Barb and Seema (where I would end up crashing for the weekend. Thanks!) and mentally prepared myself for a night of reunions, doing good things for great causes and  getting too drunk to function in a coherent sense.
    • It hadn't occurred to me until it was too late that not only hadn't I slept, but I hadn't eaten, and any more than two beers would send me into a shame spiral from which I wouldn't emerge.
    • Following the event, I'd spilled a drink, dropped thai food all over myself, and fell asleep at the restaurant. I literally probably had like three beers (and maybe a couple shots).
    • Needless to say, the event was a success and it was great to see some friends who I missed very dearly.
  • Mission burrito at El Farolito. Check.
    • After getting my ass over to El Farolito, I sat there alone with my burrito and I savored every taste of carne asada, cheese, salsa, black beans, sour cream, avocado, and epic burrito flavor. It's the street food that has no equivalent anywhere in the world.
    • I had to walk halfway across the city to burn this thing off so I could make room for Saison.
  • Dinner at the hot, new San Francisco restaurant, Saison (recommended by my friend AJ). CHECK!
    • Navin and Barb joined me at the new restaurant where we indulged in a SEVEN course prix fixe menu and wine pairing (BOTTOMLESS) that you only get in a place like San Francisco. The food was all sourced locally and the flavors were mindblowing. The menu had been set on Friday and the restaurant is only open on Fridays, Saturdays, and Sundays, so I consider us to be very lucky to have gotten reservations just a couple weeks ago.
    • More than just the food, the ambiance and service were second-to-none. Housed in a former horse stable (no joke), Saison is very *casual* in terms of style even though the food (and the prices) dictate otherwise. Like some other popular establishments in SF, the dining room opens into the kitchen so you can see the masters of the art at work while you eat. It lacked pretention and was a dining experience that sits amongst the top that I've had in San Francisco. Kudos to Joshua Skenes and team for yet another top-notch San Francisco restaurant.
    • The menu speaks for itself: http://saisonsf.com/pdf/saison%20menu%2011.21.09%20web.pdf

The weekend wasn't a complete success. Sadly the thing I missed and hurt the most was not getting to see Bucky's newly-birthed offspring Liam. And worse yet, it was substituted by an hour of mockery from my other "friend" JT on Friday night. :)

But I'm not worried. I know I'll be coming back.

Now...to New York, Thanksgiving, and a wedding.

31Oct/096

Nostalgic for the Mission Burrito

I've been here for 15 months now.

In that time, my spoken and written english has devolved, my skin has become pale, my pants are now very snug and tight-fitting, my apartment is minimally decorated, and I've mellowed out considerably and swear a lot less (although my Swedish colleagues would argue I'm far from mellow and continue to border on crazy New Yorker, especially when the team is involved in a heated round of Battlefield Heroes).

Though all these things may seem like major changes to my lifestyle and behavior, none are quite as dramatic as my diet. I eat far more seafood here, in particular salmon and herring. The salmon is usually poached or baked, and the herring is either pickled or fried. In the winter, like the rest of the Swedes, I hunker down with meat and potatoes. The potatoes are most often boiled, sometimes roasted, and the meat can be in the form of a stew, broiled (like a steak), or baked (like a ham). I eat far less lamb (the northern Europeans I've met don't seem to like it as much) and less chicken.

As much as I appreciate the Swedish diet and enjoy it thoroughly, particularly for its very apparent health benefits (Swedes are beautiful, and it's no coincidence), I have desperate cravings for food that, in all of Europe, is nowhere to be found.

In three weeks, I'll be going stateside for a few major events: Thanksgiving in NY, my friend's wedding (also in NY), and the Tuk Tuk Goose fundraiser in San Francisco.

My trip to San Francisco will be the first one since I left almost a year and a half ago. I'm going back under the most desirable of circumstances. We're throwing a huge party to raise money for some amazing charities in the name of a fantastic adventure that I'll be partaking in with two great friends. I'll be seeing some close friends I haven't seen in a while and I'll have an entire weekend to spend with some of them (though I might argue that's not nearly enough). It'll be the holiday season, the tail-end of a crappy recession, and a good reason to consume mass amounts of alcohol in what will be a big homecoming celebration.

But most of all, I will look forward to the food. San Francisco has, for 30 years, been one of the culinary capitals of the US and furthermore of the world. It was from San Francisco (Berkeley actually), that Alice Waters kicked off an American gastronomic revolution in the 70s and is still today revolutionizing the way we look at not only the consumption of food, but the farming and distribution of it.

My initial thought upon scheduling my return was to see if I could get reservations to Thomas Keller's The French Laundry in Napa, a restaurant that sits among the top in the world. It was a place I never got to go to before I left and I have regretted it ever since. For a number of reasons I decided not to, including the fact that I didn't need to drop that much cash on one meal before heading half way around the world.

But luckily for me, San Francisco does not run short on options.

So rather than head to The French Laundry, I will be opting for the second-best option: the $5 burrito at a divey, cash-only taqueria where no one speaks english in the Mission District. I will likely be drunk when I go, and will likely have the runs when I wake up the next morning (apologies in advance to whomever will be putting me up for the weekend). But it will be the best burrito (and Mexican food) I will have consumed in 15 months and I will likely consume it in 15 minutes. And I can't wait.

The Mission taqueria is a street-food gastronomic experience, rivaling the NY pizzeria or deli, the Chicago hot dog stand, the French creperie, and the Swedish strömmingvagn. You wait in line in a divey taqueria surrounded by Mission hipsters and homeless men trying to sell you bicycles. The menu includes items such as tongue and brain. The six to seven men (and one to two women) are slaving over a hot industrial size grill preparing cow-sized portions of chopped meats trying to churn you through the line as fast as possible and never screwing up an order despite the mass chaos that ensues. The hardworking immigrant pursuing the American dream is an essential ingredient to the Mission taqueria.

The Mission Burrito (Source: Wikipedia...you know something has a badass reputation when it has its own Wikipedia page)

The Mission Burrito (Source: Wikipedia...you know something has a badass reputation when it has its own Wikipedia page)

When you get the burrito, it's usually wrapped in foil. When you bite into it, it's a flavor explosion. Meat (carnitas, carne asada, pollo, etc), beans (black or pinto...NOT refried), rice, sour cream, guacamole, onions, and a whole lot of love overwhelms your senses leaving you crippled about halfway down into the monstrosity. And the only way to wash it down is with a tasty Mexican coke, Jarritos, or Dos Equis. The entire meal is 9000 calories of awesome.

And of course SFers, challenge me all you want here, but at the time I left El Farolito was still serving the best burritos I ever had in the Mission.

I can't wait.

Filed under: culture, food, humor 6 Comments
17Oct/092

The Great Smör Med Havssalt Drought of 2009

While the rest of the world has been bracing for the pandemic that is the swine flu, Sweden has had their own national nightmare.

Smör (pronounced smirrrr) med havssalt has been disappearing off shelves and Swedes have been scrambling to make do with just plain smör.

Ok. I'll stop with the rigmarole. Smör is butter. Smör med havssalt is butter with sea salt.

Let me explain something about the butter here. It's amazing. It's used in all cooking. It's natural, it's rich, it's delightful. It's not some watered down, commodity corn substitute loaded with cow hormones and tasting like empty crap.

Smör is used in all cooking. And it's not used in excess because it tastes good enough in moderation. That is the way food is harvested in Europe; to be consumed in moderation. Novel concept. I know. But I know of a distant land that industrially manufactures food to be consumed by human beings as it would be consumed by cattles lining up for the slaughter.

Butter here is creamy. It's rich. It tastes like butter. You simply can't eat too much of it, nor do you want to. It can be used in everything and when you cook with it, you can taste it in the food. In a good way. It actually brings out the flavor in what you're eating.

More amazing than just smör is the smör med havssalt. The sea salt butter produced here tastes great in cooking as it does on fresh bread, with a little fig jam.

DSC_0015

So when I was on the verge of running out, I asked M to pick some up on her way over for dinner that night.

She SMSed me to say she couldn't find it. What does that MEAN?!?!

I called her.

She'd gone to a couple places. One grocery store had run out and the clerk was clueless while the second place simply said they stopped ordering it. WHAT? I would've grabbed that clerk by the shoulders, shaken and slapped him/her a few times.  Fortunately, M is a bit more civilized than I.

I grabbed my coat and went to the most obscure supermarket near me. It's underground near a train station and the kind of place you stumble upon by accident usually when you're not even looking for it. For the Swedes/Sweden-dwellers, Coop at Slussen. It's almost always stocked since no one really goes there.

I ran to the back of the store and opened the small smör refrigerator, and there it was. Only TWO left. I pondered taking both. Stocking up for what was sure to be a long, dark, and potentially smörless winter.

I settled for one. And the woman waiting patiently behind me as I grabbed mine? Well needless to say, she grabbed the very last one.

Is this what socialism is? High demand, low supply by an overreaching government that struggles to meet the overly-expectant needs of its starving population? Will I have to stand outside in a line in the cold, braving the Swedish winter, for a little taste of the heavenly, creamy deliciousness that is smör med havssalt??? Will I have to fall to my atheist knees to pray to Sankt Erik, patron saint of Stockholm, and glorious provider of smör med havssalt for the Swedish working man? Will I have to prostitute myself to government officials, doing things you only see in movies, making myself an informant for the socialist government and a political propaganda tool for the greater good, FOR BUT A TASTE OF SMÖR MED HAVSSALT???

I'd do it all a hundred times over.

Especially when it saves me from having to eat this USDA-approved industrial crap:

dscn1169

Filed under: culture, food, humor, sweden 2 Comments
21Aug/093

I läk Läkerol. I läk it a lot.

Licorice.

It's a crazy obsession here. Scandinavians are licorice snobs. Everyone has their brand, their flavor. They argue over it. I'm pretty sure that the Northern Seven Years' War was started over which licorice reigned supreme.
It's more than an obsession. It's an addiction. I mean, if I didn't know what Läkerol (a famous brand of licorice) was and I went to their website, I would've thought they were trying to sell me cigarettes.
On my first day of work over a year ago, a Swedish coworker gave me a piece of their Läkerol. I asked him what it was, he told me to just try it. It smelled like licorice, so I popped it in my mouth. Within two to three seconds it was in the garbage and my face was wincing in shapes that I never thought possible.
There's licorice, and there's salted licorice. Most Swedes I've met will argue that salted licorice is the TRUE licorice and everything else is just chicanery. I'll tell you, I'm not one easily jaded by a bad food experience, but I haven't had a piece of salted licorice since.
But I've developed a real liking for Läkerol's other flavors. Particularly the cactus-flavored licorice.
Sadly, I almost feel like it's a drug. Like there's some kind of nicotine in it, because I can go through an entire box in a day. The same way Swedes go through snuss. Ahhh, but that's another blog post for another day.
Filed under: culture, food, humor, sweden 3 Comments
1Aug/097

Stockholm: Year One

This weekend makes one year since I moved to Stockholm.

But it's crazy to think how my life has panned out in the last 13 years since I graduated from high school.
I went to college for four and a half years in rural Pennsylvania during which I lived with alcoholics. I studied abroad for six months in cosmopolitan Paris during which I lived with a French family. I did an eight month internship with big pharma in central New Jersey.
I lived in suburban Connecticut working in the financial industry in my first year after of college. I lived in conservative Kansas City working in reinsurance (don't make me explain it) the following two years. I lived in liberal San Francisco for almost five years focused on the tech industry.
And now I've been in Europe working with video games for a full year.
I consider myself well-informed; not because I read a lot or watched documentaries on TV or the news, but rather because I've lived a lot. I've done a lot. I've experienced more these past ten years than most people have in a lifetime. I'm only 31.
My opinions aren't based on hearsay, they're based on personal experiences. I've lived in just about every kind of culture, in every type of environment in the modern, developed western world.
Strong, core, family values to progressive ideals. Corporate libertarianism to social liberalism. Fast food to slow food. White collar to blue collar. Pabst Blue Ribbon to Sierra Nevada. 1664 to Nils Oscar.
If anyone were to ask me how I thought I was living my life and if I'm proud of the way I've lived it, my response would be simple: I'm living my life the way it was intended to be lived. I take risks. I learn from my mistakes. I become motivated by my successes. I learn from others. I evolve my mind. I become enlightened.
On Leaving San Francisco
My reasons for leaving San Francisco were personal.
I loved the city. I loved the desire for perfection; the desire to make the world a better place. I loved the location (there's no place as beautiful as Northern California or Bay Area in perhaps the entire US). I loved the passion of a tech industry that drove people to innovate and pursue their ideas.
I was tired of the people. I was burnt out. I was tired of the pretentious, entitled, "get rich quick" MBA types who kept thinking they were owed something for being so "awesome". I was tired of the overcompetitive, Type-A workaholics in search of personal glory in a tech industry where 1 out of 100 companies survived. I was tired of the evergrowing gap between the rich and the poor. I was tired of the "out-of-touch-with-reality" idealist liberalism that plagued a city into stagnation because too many wealthy, entitled white people thought that opening their wallets at $1,000 gala fundraisers was all it took to solve the city's social problems. I was tired of a place that claimed it was progressive and open-minded but shunned differences of opinion almost worse than other, more conservative parts of the country I'd lived in.
In my last 6-8 months in SF, I became reclusive. I stopped talking to people. I holed myself up in my apartment, distancing myself from most people that I knew. I was done and I had to get out.
On Arriving in Stockholm
The day I arrived in Stockholm (August 2nd, 2008), it was pouring. It didn't stop for four weeks. Welcome to Stockholm.
It was also the day of the Gay Pride Parade here, and the taxi which couldn't get through the roadblocks dropped me off in the pouring rain thus meaning I had to walk a few blocks in said rain, through drag queens and leather-clad men with bullwhips. After having lived in San Francisco for four years, none of this really surprised me, though admittedly it was a bit surreal to experience this in Stockholm after having left San Francisco just a few weeks earlier.
This was it. I was excited. I was finally doing what I'd set out to do: living abroad, seeing the world, creating new experiences and opportunities for myself.
On Making Friends in Stockholm
Each time I've moved to a new place, I've done it with an immense amount of energy. That energy is heartwarming, particularly with natives or established locals who don't know or forget what it's like to be a stranger in a new place. So I made friends really fast. They appreciate the energy that a newcomer has, as if they yearn to relive it themselves. So, I had my expat non-work friends, my expat work friends, my Swedish work friends, my Swedish non-work friends. Initially, I made friends with a lot of people, did a lot of social things, and in the end I came down to a core group of people that I see regularly.
Instantly, I became an object of mockery of all my friends. "Rommy-isms" have become widely-used among them. They include, but are not limited to:
  • Come on!
  • You serious?
  • You gotta be kidding me!
  • Unbelievable!
  • You are the WORST. FRIEND. EVER.
  • Ok. Ok. Enough.
  • Dude.
  • You guys ready? Ready? You ready?
It's also not unusual to hear someone yell at me to do the worm in the middle of a bar or at a party. Though I'll rarely do this stuff anymore.
On Swedes
Since I've been here, I've all too often heard the term "cold" associated with Swedes. On this point, I couldn't disagree more.
Many Swedes will find it tough to open up right away, particularly to strangers. They won't go out of their way to meet you, and furthermore, they won't invite you into their lives until you've provided them a reason to. But in my experience, when they do, they can be remarkably warm, conversational, and welcoming. They become loyal friends and they expect a certain level of loyalty back.
When I discussed this with an American friend last night, she said she'd missed the openness of Americans, the ability to become an acquaintance with just about anyone you saw. And I agreed. Then again, my counter was, if I were to meet 100 people and I remain close friends with 5, how different is that than meeting 10 people and remaining close friends with 5. There's no doubt a frustration associated with each extreme. It can be this same Swedish reservedness that makes dating remarkably difficult. In Sweden, you can be sure that you won't meet many people, but you can be sure that if a Swede is willing to let you in, then you've gotten pretty far along in the spectrum of a friendship.
On Learning and Speaking Swedish
Personally, this has been a source of frustration. I've taken the time to learn the language and speak it, but over time, the more I learn academically, the less confident I've gotten in speaking it. The gap between the academic and common, spoken language is big, not because they're structurally different, but rather because the common language is spoken extremely fast and blends together.
I want to be inundated with the language. I watch Swedish television and I read Swedish papers, but unless you use it in everyday common speak, it becomes very tough to learn. And when I speak it with Swedes, they'll often switch to English because it's comfortable for all involved.
I have no doubt that in a few years, I will become proficient, but the ramp up time has been slower than expected.
On Winter in Stockholm
I really enjoyed winter here. In fact I already have a whole post on it
worth reading that summarizes it, Winter in Stockholm.
On Summer in Stockholm
You've never seen a city change so much between winter and summer. Because I'd arrived in August last year, I missed summer (apparently August is more autumn than summer).
Like bears waking up from eight months of hibernation, the Swedes during the first warm weather day can be pretty hilarious. Everybody wanders the streets as if emerging from a bomb shelter after a nuclear attack. People are somewhat sluggish and unaware, walking slowly, looking up in an almost confused manner, shielding their eyes from the blinding sun, wondering if they survived the attack of a Stockholm winter.
Though I spent half of June away from Stockholm, the second half of June was delightful. It was hot, and no one was inside.
Most Swedish guys will smile when I go on about how amazing summer is. The first thing they'll say is "Yeah...and you're probably wondering where all the women came from." They're absolutely right.
On Food
I appreciate Swedish cuisine. No really, I do.
I mean, everything is relative. I appreciate how different it is. I appreciate that they have a culinary pride and tradition. I love that their food is prepared in accordance with a historical necessity and availability of ingredients. From herring to salmon, potatoes to meatballs, Wasa crackers to lingonberries, food exists as a product of the environmental surroundings and the history of Swedish culinary tradition. Like it or not, it's admirable.
That said, I really would like to see the Slow Food movement takeoff in Sweden. There are signs that it is starting to, but with industrialization, there has generally been a serious lack of locally-inspired, fresh cuisine relative to the rest of Europe. The processed and packaged food industry has gained a foothold here and the common sentiment is that the Swedish environment doesn't allow for variety. But variety isn't in the ingredients, it's in the way these ingredients are prepared, and that is completely in control of the individual. So the only thing I can do is to personally take it upon myself to be sure that I can buy locally and live sustainably, I just hope that the Swedes take advantage of this as well and create a market for local, fresh ingredients.
Then there's the Thai food. Swedish men vacation in Thailand, bring home a Thai wife, and thus we have amazing Thai food. Thus, I can likewise only be thankful for globalization and international relations.
On Traveling
Since I arrived, I've taken trips to France (New Year's), Denmark (holiday with sis), Norway (holiday with B&K), Italy (holiday with B&K), and Germany (with work). I've also taken trips to Philadelphia (Anthony's wedding), New York (Thanksgiving), and Park City (Sundance Film Festival).
I definitely can't say I haven't taken advantage of my central location here in Sweden. No destination in western Europe is more than three hours away, which makes for amazing opportunities.
Though disappointingly, I really haven't gone outside of my immediate surroundings (save for some required trips back to the US). There's a whole portion of eastern Europe and western Asia where I will need to take trips to in 2010.
On What's Next
A few days ago, I was lucky to find a 50 EUR roundtrip flight from Stockholm to Hyeres (where my parents have their summer home). So it'll be one final week in the sun at the end of August before I brace for my second cold, dark winter in Stockholm.
I have three weddings this fall, two of which are in the States and all three of which will get my parents wondering if I'll ever get married.
But perhaps the greatest adventure will be the epic journey to India this January (see Rickshaw Run 2010). More details to follow, but you should definitely expect to get emails as we begin our fundraising efforts and do our damnedest to keep you entertained. :)
On Rommy
I've grown up. A lot. I mean, that sounds stupid. Of course I've grown up. I'm a year older.
When people ask me what my biggest fear/phobia is, the answer is simple. I never want to look back on my life only to realize I was waiting for something to happen. I want to say that I took full advantage of my opportunities, that I learned from them, that I accomplished everything I set out to accomplish, and that I had a really great fucking time every waking moment. Well, I've had a great year.
It's a personal journey and it never ends.
2Jul/091

Balmy Stockholm, the Engångsgrill, and Kubb

On Monday, my close friends here in Sweden helped ring in my 31st birthday.

I'm not one for big birthdays (ok fine, my last one was traveling in the south of France with seven friends). But the ideal birthday to me is no more than a great excuse for close friends to get together, doing something that allows you to chat, have fun, and most importantly relax.
The weather in Stockholm for the last few weeks could easily be called a heat wave. The weather has hovered around 25-30 degrees Celsius (75 - 85 degrees Fahrenheit) and sunny, which means the Swedes are utterly panic-stricken, fearful of what must be the impending apocalypse, enacting further legislation to recycle 99.8% of their waste, and probably even reconsidering that July vacation they were supposed to take to Thailand.
As a result of the abnormally awesome weather, Anna, Erik, Kim, Sara, Oscar, Francesca, Kylie,
Aleks, and I met at Hagaparken (a huge park on a lake in the middle of Stockholm) where we brought about 15 kilos of meat, 8 salads, 4 bags of chips, 1 cupcake, and just enough booze to bring us to the brink of incoherence.
We also brought along three engångsgrills and Kubb. Ah yes, two things that are quintessentially Swedish...or maybe not...
Parks in the US have stationary grills built into the ground that you have to snag or reserve ahead of time. In Sweden, I haven't seen any such thing (yet, though they might exist).

Engångsgrill is Swedish for "one-time grill". It's a disposable grill that you buy at any supermarket for around 50-60 SEK (around $6-$8) and use once. To use it, you just unwrap the plastic, then set the brown bag under the mesh grill on fire, watch it burn off revealing the now heated charcoal briquettes, and voila you start grilling.
I found this concept of a disposable grill to be remarkably un-Swedish. Sweden, as mentioned in previous posts, prides itself on its deep-rooted respect (and concern) for the environment. Its environmental policies are second to none. Every Swede is an avid recycler, and people who don't actively recycle are shunned by their peers.
To me the engångsgrill is something I would expect out of a consumer culture like the US (it's no secret and yes I'm hatin'). Wasteful packaging, unreusable, made of foil which isn't biodegradable. I still don't question Sweden's dedication to the environment, but it was quite the noodle scratcher (yes, I just said noodle scratcher). I just don't know why they don't throw up stationary grills in certain designated areas of parks in Stockholm. That seems so much more environmental and socialist to me. :)
Either way, we only used two grills and ate half our meat before we had a little more to drink and retired to a few games of Kubb.
Kubb, according to some Swedish friends, is a game popular in Gotland (a big Swedish vacation island southeast of Stockholm). It's a summer game involving two teams, five rooks each side, and a king in the middle. The goal is simple, each team simply needs to knock down the other team's kubbs and then knock down the king in the middle. I heard it only really became popular here in Stockholm a few years ago, and even still we expats are the only ones I've seen playing it. When Kathryn, Britt, and Mike came to Sweden a few
weeks, we celebrated Midsommarsafton (Midsummer's Eve) with Anna and Erik who showed us the glory of this amazing game, even driving Britt to purchase a set before she headed back to the US.
...and it's the most fun lawn game I've ever played. EVER. Kubb is far more accessible (easy for anyone to play) than horseshoes, beerbie, croquet, or any of those lame summer lawn games. It's one of those games I can't wait to bring back to the US (if I ever go back).
(Aside: we played girls vs. guys and we got our asses handed to us. Yes, I was on the guys' team.)
Needless to say, it was Anna who had the great idea of grilling in the park and playing Kubb and I was not one to argue. The birthday was an awesome celebration with some great friends here (thanks guys!) in Stockholm with tons of laughs, wine, beer, and animal meat and I can't wait to do it again next year (with the guys exacting their revenge at Kubb of course).
1Mar/094

Pizza Salad

I don't know if this is a Swedish thing, an Italian thing, or a pizza in Europe thing. In those rare moments when I'm craving pizza in Sweden, I go into a local pizza establishment (pizzeria or pizza place would be far too generous). I've noticed that at every casual Italian dining place, be it standard Italian fare or pizza, they have this thing called pizza salad.

Pizza salad is an awesome appetizer, dinner, or post dinner delicacy. It's served out of a big bowl at the counter next to the soda fountain. So you grab your drink, you grab your silverware and you grab your pizza salad and you sit down at a table and wait for your pizza to arrive.
Pizza salad consists of shredded cabbage, oil, vinegar, salt, and pepper. That's it. That's pizza salad. It kinda tastes like cole slaw without the creamy component.
Even when you order pizza to go, they ask you if you want pizza salad and I say HELLS YES!  In Sweden I actually say JAVISST!
The pizza salad I had last night was epic. Sadly, the pizza was fail.
Filed under: culture, food, humor, sweden 4 Comments
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